We had no idea what exactly to expect, particularly because of the War (known there as the "American War"), but we were thrilled with what we found. We avoided trips to the "Hanoi Hilton", Cu Chi Tunnels, and all of the other popular war memorial sites, so perhaps we missed a big part of the recent history that has formed today's Vietnam, but as far as I can tell, the Vietnamese seem to have put the war behind them. I was also surprised, as I was during our brief stop in China, that the usual icons of capitalism (McDonald's, Starbucks, Coca Cola) have pervaded the socialist landscape, making all of the fighting that has been waged over conflicting ideologies seem particularly meaningless. The transcendent desire to "buy stuff" seems to have led nearly all the world's people to arrive at the same place anyway...
Our trip started in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), and although our stop was brief, we did get a chance to soak up the atmosphere of the city. The streets are well-labeled and easy to navigate, with beautiful colonial buildings and lovely green city parks. Although we heard lots of talk of corruption, and I am aware that there are gangs of homeless kids that roam the streets of Saigon, we didn't witness any of this; instead we met friendly locals and teenagers in school uniforms, eager to practice their English with us.
After only a couple of days in Saigon, we moved to the central part of the country, to the town of Hoi An (near Danang). Hoi An is an old trading port dating to the 15th century, which managed to avoid being damaged during the war. On the full moon of each month, the lights are turned off along the riverfront, and everything is lit by lanterns. Although touristy, it was absolutely beautiful, like a dream. Southeast Asia at its most romantic:) We took a fantastic cooking class, ate the most amazing food, and spent a day at a nearby beach.
After four days in Hoi An, we headed north. We cruised Halong Bay on a Chinese-style junk for two nights, gliding past karst formations and hanging out with some really interesting people. One of the highlights was dinner in a cave (which was not nearly as corny as it sounds), which came to an abrupt end because a storm had hit. Making our way down 99 steps (Isabel counted) from the mouth of the cave to the dinghy, then crossing the bay in the dark, with the rain coming down sideways, wind gusts rocking the boat back and forth, lightning and thunder in the background, and an obviously near-panicked young crew, was more than a bit exhilerating, albeit the tiniest bit terrifying:)
We spent the last few days of our Vietnam adventure in Hanoi. A totally frenetic and atmospheric place, I think Hanoi is my favorite city of all that we've visited in Southeast Asia. Scams are aplenty (there was a slight altercation between Chad and a shoe-shine guy (actually, almost any scam that we've ever been involved in has had to do with a shoe-shine guy...) and we had a rigged meter in one of the taxis that we took), but I guess that's all part of the excitement. Hanoi has fabulous museums (we visited the Women's museum and the Museum of Ethnology), restaurants, old temples, and a fun water puppet theatre. In the Old Quarter, women carry baskets of chickens, prawns, fruits and vegetables, selling their goods to cooks at street foodstalls, which people crowd around on tiny little plastic stools slurping up bowls of phở and drinking down bia hoi (fresh beer). Shops selling herbal medicines, headstones, tools, toys, really everything, line streets crowded with motorcycles and people moving in every direction. One of the most fun things to do there is to grab a table at a cafe and watch it all. I think that I could spend a month in Hanoi and not get bored...
Back here in Singapore, things are well. Recently we went to the Chingay Parade, an annual event held in conjunction with the Chinese New Year festivities. This year's theme was "fire and snow" -- and really, how could it not have been great when fire was part of the theme? It was truly impressive, and a great evening out for the three of us.
At work, I'm keeping busy editing the Singapore Botanic Gardens' magazine, as well as some book manuscripts that NParks will soon be publishing. Things are going well for Chad, too, at Gardens by the Bay, and he'll be going to the UK next month to visit the Eden Project and attend the Chelsea Flower Show. Isabel's back at school today after two weeks off for spring break. She's really flourishing these days, and she continually makes us proud. She recently played her guitar in the school talent show, wrote and read an incredible poem on stage at the school's "Poetry Cafe" evening, and has a role in the school's upcoming Seussical musical (she's playing a Wickersham Brother).
Till next time, take care everyone. Enjoy the slideshow...

